Norway is famed for its seafood, in addition to consuming more coffee than any other country on the planet, being the origin of skiing and Lofoten Islands, and enjoying wild and stunning terrain that rivals New Zealand and Alaska.
The Lofoten Islands in Norway
However, this has little to do with my primary motivation for going. I want to step foot within the Arctic Circle, namely on the Lofoten Islands, and the fact that some of the world’s wealthiest cod-fishing occurs there each year will not deter me.
Besides, I’m traveling in late August, so there won’t be any fish drying racks in sight…right?!
The Lofoten Islands, located 300 kilometers inside the Arctic Circle and at the same latitude as Greenland and Northern Alaska, are made up of some of the world’s youngest and oldest rocks.
The archipelago consists of various islands, including Andøya, Langøya, Moskenesøya, Hadseløya, Vestvågøy, Flakstadøya, and Austvågøy.
The E10 National Scenic Route (King Olav V’s Road) connects them by road bridges and tunnels and ends at the settlement of Å (pronounced ‘or’) in the southern point.
After flying from Trondheim to Harstad/Narvik, I drove to the Tjeldsund Bridge, which connects the mainland to Hinnøya.
Stokmarknes
After arriving at Austvågøy, I took the ferry from Fiskebol to Melbu on the island of Hadseløya and stayed in the little village of Stokmarknes.
As the sun sets and the boats in the harbor arrive and leave, the sky turns a red color. Reflections in the water make it appear that the sea is on fire. Stokmarknes is Hurtigruten’s headquarters.
Its ships offer journeys throughout the Norwegian coastline, stopping at a variety of places between Bergen and Kirkenes.
Svolvær
Svolvaer’s cruise port overlooks the Vestfjorden, a stretch of the Norwegian Sea that connects the Lofoten Islands to the mainland.
Svolværgeita, often known as the “Svolvær Goat,” is a renowned climbing destination.
With a population of over 4,000, it’s a bit of a shock to see such a bustling small town after so much isolation, but the waterfront is lovely, and I spend an hour or so wandering about the cafés and stores.
Interestingly, Svolvaer was one of the areas raided by Allied forces during WWII, destroying ships and buildings that supplied fish oil and glycerin to the German armaments sector.
The Hamburg, a fish factory ship, still sits at the bottom of the port; for further information, see the town’s War Museum.
Kabelvag
At Kabelvag, I visit the Lofoten Aquarium, which has skrei (Norwegian Arctic cod), crabs, and other sea species found in the nearby seas.
Its displays on the fishing business are excellent, and I was even persuaded to throw a few of fish heads to the seals at feeding time.
I spend the night in a typical rorbu, replete with a rickety timber corridor and a door that won’t close properly.
Lofotr Viking Museum
The Vikings were a significant presence on the islands, and the next day I decided to visit the Lofotr Viking Museum in Borg, which was erected on the site of the largest chieftain’s home ever discovered and features an 83-meter-long recreation.
The weather has been rainy and moderate, but today a strong wind is blowing across Vestvågøy, making it difficult to walk from the car park.
Stepping into the longhouse is like going back in time. The hearth emits a strong odor of tarred lumber and smoke, and the walls are covered in furs.
Huge weaving looms are set up in the corner, along with weaponry and armour that I am permitted to try on. Everything looks cozy and pleasant, and you’d never think there’s a gale raging outside.
Nusfjord
Nusfjord, located on the south coast of Flakstadøya, is a charming fishing community with original rorbuer nestled in a small harbor surrounded by steep cliffs.
Among the restored structures are a sawmill, cod liver oil plant, and an antique country shop from 1907. The majority of them are closed because the summer season is coming to an end.
However, by continuing the route up to the top of the opposing rock, I can have a magnificent view of the settlement.
Every now and then, I discover a spot so unexpected and unique that I almost don’t want to tell the rest of the world about it.
It’s like a little secret between me and the select few who know where it is.
Ramberg
When I arrived at Ramberg later that day, I knew I had found a spot like this. Vibrant green hills descend to a long crescent of immaculate white beach lapped by blue seas, while dark mountain peaks loom in the background.
Instead of the little cottage, the manager at Ramberg Gjestegård allows me to stay in a huge white vacation house owned by her friends for the same fee.
It features a garden that slopes down to the shore and large picture windows that overlook the water.
As evening falls, the sky becomes striped with magenta and orange, extending far out to sea towards Svalbard and the Arctic Ocean beyond.
For years, artists have traveled to the Lofoten Islands for not just the spectacular landscape, but also the unique natural light.
Others come to witness the Midnight Sun, in which the sun never fully sets between May and July.
The Aurora Borealis may be seen here between late August and mid April, provided the circumstances are correct.